the WX5 and see if I can modify it internally to suit my midi cable power set up. I did this with my Digitech Control8. Silicone grease is the only way to stop the mouthpiece from sticking. I have no clue why Yamaha gives you recorder cream with the WX5. This stuff is next to useless. I was given this small amount of silicone lube from a local watch mender. They use it to seal casings. I've also modified the sling. The catch has been cut off (so I can switch instruments quickly on stage), and I've also fixed the swivel with epoxy. This forces a quarter twist in the sling right near the body of the WX5, and keeps the strap length adjuster away from your left thumb when you go for the bottom octave key. |
Here's a stand I made using the base of an old sax stand, a length of PVC pipe, a chunk of timber (Brazilian mahogany no less!), and some speaker carpet. Move over MacGyver! (I had some fishing line and chewing gum as well, but didn't need them.) Note: You will have to cut off the cable clamp on the end of the WX5. (Mine had half broken anyway.) I also modified my M-Audio 2X2 USB midi interface to supply power for the WX5 via the midi cable. This power can be either from a transformer or from the actual USB bus. There's more info about this here. I use this adapter at the WX5 end of the midi cable. If I get enthusiastic one day, I'll open up |
I had the WX5 for a few years and only played it ocassionally with my sampler, or with my computer as an aid to sequencing. Since I started taking my laptop to gigs this year, I've started playing the WX5 live. Its a brilliant contoller with a huge potential for expression. I usually use it with plug-in instruments within Ableton Live or Protools, or with Reason synths and samplers. For live gigs, a stand and a hard case are essential. The Yamaha case (YCWX5) is excellent and not really too expensive, but you'll need google to find one! |
Yamaha WX5 |
Yamaha WX5 |
I had the WX5 for a few years and only played it ocassionally with my sampler, or with my computer as an aid to sequencing. Since I started taking my laptop to gigs this year, I've started playing the WX5 live. Its a brilliant contoller with a huge potential for expression. I usually use it with plug-in instruments within Ableton Live or Protools, or with Reason synths and samplers. For live gigs, a stand and a hard case are essential. The Yamaha case (YCWX5) is excellent and not really too expensive, but you'll need google to find one! |
Here's a stand I made using the base of an old sax stand, a length of PVC pipe, a chunk of timber (Brazilian mahogany no less!), and some speaker carpet. Move over MacGyver! (I had some fishing line and chewing gum as well, but didn't need them.) Note: You will have to cut off the cable clamp on the end of the WX5. (Mine had half broken anyway.) I also modified my M-Audio 2X2 USB midi interface to supply power for the WX5 via the midi cable. This power can be either from a transformer or from the actual USB bus. There's more info about this here. I use this adapter at the WX5 end of the midi cable. If I get enthusiastic one day, I'll open up |
the WX5 and see if I can modify it internally to suit my midi cable power set up. I did this with my Digitech Control8. Silicone grease is the only way to stop the mouthpiece from sticking. I have no clue why Yamaha gives you recorder cream with the WX5. This stuff is next to useless. I was given this small amount of silicone lube from a local watch mender. They use it to seal casings. I've also modified the sling. The catch has been cut off (so I can switch instruments quickly on stage), and I've also fixed the swivel with epoxy. This forces a quarter twist in the sling right near the body of the WX5, and keeps the strap length adjuster away from your left thumb when you go for the bottom octave key. |
Reeds can be repaired with super glue. The technique is almost identical to what guitar repairers refer to as a "drop fill". The little dip caused by the pitch lever has to be cleaned with solvent, then filled with a tiny drop of super glue. A toothpick is ideal for this job. The repair can then be leveled with files, and sandpaper. You can just see the darkened semi-circular area near the tip where the drop fil was done. (Of course you can always buy a new reed. I bought some recently directly from Yamaha Australia and they were only around $5 each.) |
